Shiplap. You either love it or you’re sick of it. Personally, I love it. Maybe it’s because I’m from Texas. Jojo and I are practically the same person! Back to shiplap.
I love adding trim to my house and shiplap appeals to me because of it’s graphic, yet subtle nature. I’ve always known that I wanted to add wainscot to my main floor bathroom that I’m renovating for the One Room Challenge.
Wainscot makes the room feel taller, but it also protects the lower parts of the walls that get rubbed by a certain dirty doggy and children. Shiplap gives me the perfect casual look that I’m going for in this bathroom.
However, bathrooms need a little extra care during shiplap installation to protect them from the wet environment.
Installing shiplap is pretty straight forward. You can use the inexpensive method of using underlayment cut to thin strips or you can buy V-groove boards. I’ve used both methods and I like both of them.
My recently updated craft room has the underlayment type over the fireplace, but I used v-groove in the bathroom to avoid having the gaps that might allow moisture to sit against the wall.
For a more in depth post on how to install faux shiplap, click here.
Tips for Using Shiplap in a Bathroom
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Supplies for Installing Shiplap
Preparation for Shiplap
Prime the wood. This will seal any knots in the wood. This is really important if you plan to paint it white. The knots will bleed and yellow without a really good primer. I recommend Zinnser BIN if you’re painting your shiplap white but I used Zinnser Bullseye 2 Primer and Sealer since we painted our shiplap green.
Paint the wood before installation with at least 2 coats. It doesn’t need to be perfect, but you want to cover most of the boards. I used semi-gloss paint to make the walls more wipeable. Shiny wood is much easier to clean than porous wood. If anything gross gets on the wood, it will be easier to clean now.
Remove the toilet if possible. It is much easier to install shiplap behind a toilet if you remove it, especially when having to touch up paint and caulk everything.
For a bathroom, consider a different color than white. I love white wainscot, but this bathroom gets heavy use, so white is not ideal (AKA: My kids are gross.) I wanted a dark color, so I considered black and navy before settling on Ralph Lauren Felt Green.
Install the baseboard first. Shiplap is pretty thin, so you can use regular baseboards, but I chose to use 1×4’s instead because I wanted a modern look.
As long as the 1st board is level, the rest should stay decently so. I worried more about matching up the lines in the corners.
I used my nail gun to attach the boards at the ends and at the studs using 1″ nails. Do not glue the boards to the wall. Please have some respect for whoever will eventually remove these. We love shiplap now, but in 2030, homeowners will be cursing us.
Give some thought to how high you want your trim. A good rule of thumb is to divide the wall into thirds. So 1/3 or 2/3 of the wall will look better than half of a wall. It won’t be exact, but try to get close. I wanted mine to go a bit higher, but then it would have impeded with the electrical outlet, towel racks and light switch.
The wood slides into the v-grooves, except for when they don’t. Some are a bit wonky or broken and that’s fine. Nail them in and be sure to caulk the seam to prevent water from getting behind the wood. This is especially important by the shower and toilet area. You don’t want any place where mold can grow.
Staggered cuts look interesting, but I still filled the seams when I filled the nail holes. I use Dry Dex Spackle to fill holes. It goes on pink and dries white. I love this stuff because it hides the holes really well.
Caulk hides a ton of imperfections. Be sure to use paintable caulk! But if necessary, add corner trim as well. I have an outside corner that will need a corner piece. I could have mitered the ends, but that seems crazy to me. And potentially sharp. Be kind to the people who will be naked in your bathroom.
Paint one last coat of paint over the shiplap. Personally, I like using a paintbrush with the final coat of semigloss paint. Yes, it’s tedious, but I listen to some podcasts and I find that I enjoy tedious jobs better. I even look forward to them!
How do you cap off shiplap?
There are pieces of trim to cap the top off. I waited to install mine until I’m finished painting the area above the shiplap.
You can also use regular lumber, such as a 1×4 for a more modern look.
How much does shiplap cost?
At the time of installation, each pack of tongue and groove boards cost about $16 each. We needed 4 packs for an average bathroom size.
Lumber costs vary due to location and supply.
What is the best wood for shiplap in a bathroom?
I used tongue and groove wood because it’s pretty easy to work with and I knew that I could seal it well.
In my bathroom that is only used by adults, I used the faux shiplap method using thin plywood.
The one wood I would not suggest for shiplap is MDF because it has a tendency to swell when it gets wet and it looks horrible. Plus it’s heavy and awful to cut.
What is the best paint for shiplap in a bathroom?
I prefer semi-gloss paint in a bathroom and for trim because it’s easier to clean.
Looking for more shiplap inspiration?
Check out this post on budget friendly shiplap in my other bathroom!
You might also like:
- Budget Bathroom Makeover
- One Room Challenge Sunroom
- How to Build a Wood Countertop
- How to Install Budget Friendly Shiplap
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