As you may have gleamed from the post title or my instagram, my idea to paint a gingham pattern on my existing painted backsplash failed miserably! In case you’re the type of person who wants to know everything that’s involved, here’s everything involved in tiling a backsplash. Today is all about the prep work.
Part 1: Prep work
- remove old tile
- repair damage from old tile
- apply thinset
- apply tile
- cut pieces where needed and apply them
- let dry completely
- clean up grout mess
What went wrong
I had originally painted the yellow-ish backsplash white, priming it with Zinsser BIN shellac. This is my favorite primer so I trusted that it would work. It was mostly still in tact after 1 1/2 years, but there were a few places where canisters had rubbed against the wall, scraping the paint off. I tried to use the delicate surface Frog tape to mark out where to paint my gingham pattern, but it peeled up paint where it was placed. (To be fair, it was not the tape’s fault. Painting glossy ceramic tile was a risk.) I considered just free-hand painting it, but I wanted to create something that other people could also do. I want affordable, but I also want do-able. Tiling a backsplash can be affordable!
Painting the tile was worth it because it made something that was very ugly look better. I would recommend it to anyone, but just understand that it’s a temporary solution. I would do it again, but I would use oil primer instead.
Prep Work: Tile removal
I thought that it would be fun to get some aggression out on the tile by smashing stuff. I was so wrong. The only way to remove tile is the hard way: brute manual labor. I have almost 20 linear feet of backsplash, so it took forever. Each tile came off one-by-one. It was physically demanding of my shoulders. I had to take so many breaks to rest my muscles. The prep work is hard, but it pays off in the end!
- Screwdriver (to remove outlet covers)
- Paint multi-tool (make sure it has a metal end)
- Hammer or rubber mallet
- Small crowbar
- Construction grade trash bags
- Shop vac and small hand broom
- Start by removing all of the outlet covers and switches.
- Use the paint multi-tool at an angle to pry up the first tile. The closer your slide it against the wall, the better it pries them off. Use the pointy bit when you don’t have a good angle to get at. Hitting the end of it with a hammer scoots it further beneath the tile, allowing you leverage to pop it off.
- Repeat 5000 times until you’re done. *Good to know: Smacking the tile with the hammer doesn’t actually remove it. You probably shouldn’t try it.*
- Some areas are harder than others to get to. This is where the crowbar comes in. Use it gently or you will crush the drywall under it.
- There were also soft spots in the drywall that made removal difficult. I used the crowbar for that too.
- Clean up! Tile is HEAVY! Duh! Partially fill each garbage bag so it won’t break. I used about 6 garbage bags and only filled them about 1/5 of their capacity.
- Use the shop vac and small broom to clean any remaining mess.
Repairing the wall
- utility knife
- putty knife
- joint compound (plus mixer and bucket if you buy it dry)
- drywall mesh tape
- sand paper or sanding sponge
- If you haven’t done so already in the clean up part, remove any crumbling mess from the drywall. I had big chunks to remove, plus bits of paper to pull off. Use the utility knife if you need to remove paper where necessary. (The house builders did not prime my walls, so I was left without drywall paper when I removed the tile.)
- Scrape any leftover thinset ridges. Most of mine came off with the tiles, but if you have them, try to knock them down as much as possible. Sand it if you need to. I found that a scraper worker really well for this.
- Apply drywall mesh tape to the larger holes and gouges where the walls are broken.
- Apply joint compound where needed. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it needs to be pretty smooth. I mixed my own joint compound and made it thinner than normal for this first base, like yogurt.
- Let dry overnight. I put a fan on it since the humidity was pretty high.
- I scraped off any ridges, using the scraper, then applied more joint compound where needed. This time, I mixed it the usual consistency, like icing.
- I let this dry again overnight.
- A third coat was not necessary, so I scraped any ridges, then sanded where necessary. Once again, it doesn’t need to be perfect, but it needs to be fairly level.
- Clean up the mess from sanding.
- Prime the entire area. I didn’t see this as a step anywhere in instructions that I looked at, but DON’T skip this part. For the sanity of whoever buys your house next. Or when you redo your tile choice. It’s important. I believe that tile removal would have gone much smoother if the walls had been primed.
Now your prep work is done and your walls are ready for the next step: thinset and the tile!