Home Improvement

The Ultimate Guide to Installing Shiplap in a Bathroom

Shiplap. You either love it or you’re sick of it. Personally, I love it. Maybe it’s because I’m from Texas. Jojo and I are practically the same person! Back to shiplap. I love adding trim to my house and shiplap appeals to me because of it’s graphic, yet subtle nature. I’ve always known that I wanted to add wainscot to my main floor bathroom that I’m renovating for the One Room Challenge. Wainscot makes the room feel taller, bu it also protects the lower parts of the walls that get rubbed by a certain dirty doggy and children. Shiplap gives me the perfect casual look that I’m going for in this bathroom. However, bathrooms need a little extra care during installation to protect them from the wet environment.

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Installing shiplap is pretty straight forward. You can use the inexpensive method of using underlayment cut to thin strips or you can buy V-groove boards. I’ve used both methods and I like both of them. My recently updated craft room has the underlayment type over the fireplace, but I used v-groove in the bathroom to avoid having  the gaps that might allow moisture to sit against the wall.

For a more in depth post on how to install shiplap, click here. This tutorial uses a different type of wood, but the concepts are the same.

Tips for Using Shiplap in a Bathroom

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Supplies

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  • Prime the wood. This will seal any knots in the wood. This is really important if you plan to paint it white. The knots will bleed and yellow without a really good primer. I recommend Zinnser BIN, but I used Zinnser Bullseye 2 Primer and Sealer since it was already nearby and we painted our shiplap green.
  • Paint the wood before installation with at least 2 coats. It doesn’t need to be perfect, but most of the paint should be on the boards. I used semi-gloss paint to make the walls more wipeable. Shiny wood is much easier to clean than pourous wood. Should anything gross get on the wood, it will be easier to clean now.
  • For a bathroom, consider a different color than white. I love white wainscot, but this bathroom gets heavy use, so white is not ideal (AKA: My kids are gross.) I wanted a dark color, so I considered black and navy before settling on Ralph Lauren Felt Green. 
  • Install the baseboard. Shiplap is pretty thin, so you can use regular baseboards, but I chose to use 1×4’s instead because I wanted a cleaner look.
  • As long as the 1st board is level, the rest should stay decently so. I worried more about matching up the lines in the corners. shiplap
  • I used my nail gun to attach the boards at the ends and at the studs using 1″ nails. Do not glue the boards to the wall. Please have some respect for whoever will eventually remove these. We love shiplap in 2016, but in 2030, homeowners will be cursing us. 
  • Give some thought to how high you want your trim. A good rule of thumb is to divide the wall into thirds. So 1/3 or 2/3 of the wall will look better than half of a wall. It won’t be exact, but try to get close. I wanted mine to go a bit higher, but then it would have impeded with the electrical outlet, towel racks and light switch.
  • The wood slides into the v-grooves, except for when they don’t. Some are a bit wonky or broken and that’s fine. Nail them in and be sure to caulk the seam to prevent water from getting behind the wood. This is especially important by the shower and toilet area. You don’t want any place where mold can grow.
  • Staggered cuts look interesting, but I still filled the seams when I filled the nail holes. I use Dry Dex Spackle to fill holes. It goes on pink and dries white. I love this stuff because it hides the holes really well.
  • Caulk hides a ton of imperfections. Be sure to use paintable caulk!! But if necessary, add corner trim as well. I have an outside corner that will need a corner piece. I could have mitered the ends, but that seems crazy to me. And potentially sharp. Be kind to the people who will be naked in your bathroom.shiplap2
  • There are pieces of trim to cap the top off. I’m waiting to install mine until I’m done painting the area above the shiplap.
  • Paint one last coat of paint over the shiplap. Personally, I like using a paintbrush with the final coat of semigloss paint. Yes, it’s tedious, but I listen to some podcasts and I find that I enjoy tedious jobs better.  I even look forward to them!

Join me tomorrow for my ORC Week 2 update. I’m so excited about how much work we have gotten done!

See the final reveal here!

 

Related Posts:

One Room Challenge Sunroom

How to Build a Wood Countertop

How to Install Budget Friendly Shiplap

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Installing shiplap in a bathroom

 


9 thoughts on “The Ultimate Guide to Installing Shiplap in a Bathroom

  1. Love it. Questions, I’m putting right on the studs in the bathroom should I seal the back? And thoughts about installing above a shower stall on the ceiling or above the wall unit?

    Thank you!

    Deb

    1. Hi Deb! I would at least paint the back of the wood since it’s going against studs.
      As far as the ceiling and above your shower, that depends on your bathroom. Do you have a bathroom fan? I ask because we don’t and after my kids use the shower, the walls drip with condensation. I would be concerned about the moisture because of them. I love how it looks on the ceiling in bathrooms though! Are you painting it? If it’s painted and sealed well, it should be fine. Unless you have kids like mine. 😉

  2. I am doing a woos slat ceiling in bathroom. Using pine wood wood planed down to 1/4 inch. We will be going over original shiplap for the 1930s. I have stained wood with a brown, then a grey stain followed by wiping down with a white deck stain. What should I seal them with???? And should I seal all sides to seal out moisture. Someone mentioned tar paper between it and original ceiling for moisture barrier. Any suggestions

    1. What’s the moisture like in your bathroom? I would be hesitant to use tar paper. I’ve never worked with it, but it sounds like it has the potential to be messy and be awful for the next person who owns your home. If there’s already wood there, I wouldn’t worry about it. A waterbased poly should be enough to seal it. If you prefer a low sheen, I’ve heard that General Finishes makes an amazing one. I’ve never used it, but I’ve used their milk paint and I’m very impressed.

      Caulk the edges where the trim meets and it should be fine. In our bathroom, the paint alone does a really good job of protecting the wood. And our dog shakes everywhere during baths. I hope that I’ve helped. 🙂

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